Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
